Running through Eden
Sapphire seas, cobalt skies and a meandering road ahead, sandwiched between lush forests, largely untouched since the dawn of time and the lapping of the Indian Ocean against magnificent, silver sands. I adjust my sunglasses to fend off the bright morning sunlight of the place many call ‘the land of perpetual summer’ because the temperature of this magnificent archipelago of 115 islands is almost always somewhere in the 20’s Celsius range.
I am running the Seychelles Eco-Friendly Marathon, an annual event held over the last weekend of February and arranged in collaboration with the energetic Mr. Jeong, Seychelles’ Honorary Consul in South Korea and the Seychelles Tourist Office there. The event is made possible by sponsors and firm supporters such as the national carrier Air Seychelles who have given a number of tickets to members of the international press travelling to the islands to cover the event.
My course snakes around the main island of Mahé which measures 18 miles by 5 miles and whose imposing granite peaks tower above virgin forests harbouring some of the rarest species of flora & fauna on the planet. I am in good company: the 2013 edition of the marathon boasts over 1000 competitors from all over the globe, greatly reinforcing Seychelles’ position on the international marathon circuit.
These isles, with their almost surreal, eye-watering beauty, were first sighted by the intrepid Arab sailors of the 8th century B.C, a fact attested to by lonely graves bearing Arab inscriptions dotted here and there among the islands. Thereafter, they were a favourite haunt of pirates trying to avoid their pursuers among the many shallow reefs and secluded bays before being colonised by the French in the mid-18th century, and then the by the British after the defeat of Napoleon when they continued their slumber of ages, scarcely noticed by the outside world.
The 2013 line-up for the various races which take place under the umbrella of the Seychelles Eco-friendly marathon is an especially impressive one that shows a big increase over previous years, pointing to the growing popularity of the Seychelles’ marathon.
Other than the full marathon, the event features the half-marathon (21.0975km) running, 10km running, 10km walking and 5.5km running. Contesting the men’s and women’s 42.195km marathon for the sixth Seychelles Eco-Friendly Marathon was German grandmother Sigrid Eichner, who has completed over 1600 marathons worldwide and compatriot Lutz Sproessig who was attempting his 100th race.
In this year’s event, altogether there were 1,066 runners – 585 males and 481 females – with Simon Labiche winning the men’s race in 3 hours 02 minutes 02 seconds (3h02:02).
The 2013 women’s title went to South African Monica Vorster who clocked 3h33:44 compounding her victory in last year’s race in 3h36:41.
These isles, with their almost surreal, eye-watering beauty, were first sighted by the intrepid Arab sailors of the 8th century B.C, a fact attested to by lonely graves bearing Arab inscriptions dotted here and there among the islands. Thereafter, they were a favourite haunt of pirates trying to avoid their pursuers among the many shallow reefs and secluded bays before being colonised by the French in the mid-18th century, and then the by the British after the defeat of Napoleon when they continued their slumber of ages, scarcely noticed by the outside world.
Seychelles only really ‘opened up’ to the outside world in the early 1970’s, when its international airport was completed and the islands became accessible to tourists, keen to discover the secrets of this ‘sleeping princess’ of the Indian ocean. As I look about me, signs of that are everywhere: in the rustic charm of roadside hamlets, the ‘provincial’ look and feel of the place and in the casual, happy-go-lucky demeanour of the Seychellois people.
I find myself adjusting my pace to escape the attentions of a small, household dog as I negotiate a road leading from the capital, Victoria, surely the tiniest on the planet, towards the north of the island with verdant mountains to my left and the ocean to my right. There is only one ‘highway’ in the entire country, with the rest of the road network little changed since colonial times. I find myself reflecting that in our modern world with its relentless, frantic tempo, I seem to have found one place which is truly ‘far from the madding crowd’ and with a pace of life very much its own.
Perhaps this is what makes marathon running in Seychelles so very pleasant: the fact that one’s effort in striding for the finish line takes place against the backdrop of such incredible tranquillity and breathtaking natural beauty. This Eco-Friendly Marathon is an eloquent epithet, echoing my sentiments that there is something innately holistic about running here and hugely energising as well, in a primeval kind of way.
A while back, a group of bystanders parted obligingly as I ran towards them and I was immediately struck by the great ethnic diversity of the population which stands at barely 90,000. I find myself seeking confirmation of it as I follow my route, noticing how people of obviously African origin blend harmoniously with their Chinese and Indian-looking countrymen. I have been told that Seychelles has remained a true melting-pot of cultures since the time it was first settled by a handful of French colonists with their retainers and black, African slaves. One does not have to look far to see that this grand diversity of ethnicity has given birth to a real sense of harmony which has become the bedrock – and way of life – of this tranquil, yet vibrant island nation.
This striking diversity is everywhere apparent. It is echoed in the architecture I see as I continue northwards along a road bordered by picturesque, Seychellois houses with their corrugated iron roofs, brightly-painted Indian Temple, buildings constructed in the British colonial style and Creole houses with their wide verandas and roofs specially designed to catch the island breezes.
The island cuisine that I have tasted in some of the many restaurants scattered about the islands has followed in the same vein: delicious Creole fare consisting of a rich variety of seafood prepared in a fusion of culinary styles ranging from Old French and Indian to Chinese. Perfectly in line with my train of thought, I run past a house from which the heady perfume of a dish being prepared with garlic, chillies and ginger rushes out to greet me.
Rounding North-East point, I briefly find myself facing that cluster of Inner Islands facing Victoria which comprise the Ste. Anne Marine Park, reminding me that even with its limited landmass of just over 400 sq. km, Seychelles has nonetheless reserved almost half of that for national parks and marine reserves. The islands’ conservation credentials are strong and have been so for many years and Seychelles boasts two UNESCO World Heritage Sites: the Vallée de Mai, home to the legendary Coco-de-Mer, and Aldabra, the World’s largest, raised coral atoll.
I watch as triangles of brightly-coloured sail drift across the waters separating the islands, testament to the fact that the islands are a premier sailing destination which almost seems to have been created with the sailor in mind. Snorkelling, diving and fishing are popular pastimes here as well, along with walks & trails, spa & wellness holidays and golf.
As I head due north, along the scenic coast road I cannot help but reflect on the golden future of marathon running in this uniquely beautiful place with its laid-back lifestyle and refreshing, island-style ways.
This is indeed a place to live – and run – as Nature intended.